Holden Arboretum, Ohio. © Michelle Gilbert.
Hello everyone! As I mentioned in my last post, there are a few changes in the works here at Sarva. I’m going to take a few minutes and fill you in. This is a long post, so please bear with me. There is very important information here for anyone who is a proponent of natural products, and at the very end I want your direct feedback!
If you shop regularly, you’ve noticed that a great many soaps are sold out. We had a wildly successful holiday 2009 season, and many varieties were completely sold out. Thank you! We’re currently restocking many of those varieties, some with changes, and we’re introducing some new varieties.
Rustic series soaps will share a new base formula, free of palm kernel oil. Palm and palm kernel oil harvesting is believed to contribute to tropical deforestation and displacement of orangutans from their natural habitat. Sarva has “adopted” and directly pays for the rehabilitation of one such orangutan, Kesi. I continue to investigate this issue because, of course, some people do disagree.
Holiday soaps will be retired until next year, and a few other soaps are retiring: Cinnamon Sunshine, Rosamaya, Satori, and possibly more. For some, it is simply time to move on. For others, there is something far larger happening in the world of fragrance (natural and synthetic), and it is something that you as a consumer should know about: Regulation.
The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) is an organization that sets forth guidelines for safe usage of natural and synthetic fragrance materials. They evaluate the environmental as well as the personal (skin safety) impact of these materials. Their usage recommendations for natural fragrance (including essential oils) has become more and more strict. What these data mean is that there are essential oils that I should no longer use to make soap for you.
While IFRA’s regulations are indeed research-based, there are many in the natural perfume industry who feel that they are entirely too harsh, and these people are actively protesting. I remain carefully informed on this matter, and I am one of few soapmakers who has formal aromatherapy training. I have my own opinions about this (I agree with many of them, and many I do not), but the fact remains that, whether I like it and whether I agree or not, I should not use the materials they are banning.
And in 2010, even more strict regulations are coming, further restricting what I can offer you. And it will continue to become more limiting. I expect to lose at least 25% of my product line this year as a result.
In an interview with my good friend Robert Stockham, I discussed the dilemma of which is truly more sustainable and environmentally friendly: Using essential oils which can deplete our natural resources (and some of which, no matter what anyone tells you, are simply not skin-safe), or using synthetic fragrance oils which have the potential to affect our groundwater, soil, etc. I am also acutely aware of the sensitivities some people have to fragrance oils. Keep a secret? I share these sensitivities myself. I know how you feel.
I want to be completely clear: I am a strong proponent of all things natural. You might not find a stronger proponent!
There are already endangered natural fragrance materials: Sandalwood is one, rosewood is but another. (I use rosewood leaf in my formulations, which is a somewhat more sustainable alternative). This is a very real concern.
So, you see, we have to use our resources intelligently. Being a proponent of all things natural might involve a paradigm shift: One may need to support decisions that sustain our environment, not deplete it.
I’ve meditated on this for several months, wondering if my potential solution is akin to selling out. But I believe the intelligent choice is to look at true sustainability, expanding one’s mind beyond the “natural is always best” stance. I see a middle way arising. There is a growing movement around sustainable cosmetics, and I will continue to educate myself and you. Consider: Sustainable architecture (ask any LEED-certified professional) is rarely restricted to solely natural materials; it is recognized that this too would deplete our resources (understanding, of course, we aren’t smearing building adhesives on our skin!). We learn more every day about how to create safe and sustainable materials. My opinion is that we need a LEED-like process for our industry.
So I have a proposal for you, and here’s where I want your feedback! I am considering introducing a limited range of what I’ll call “Nearly Naturals”.
- I will carefully choose fragrances which are superior quality, phthalate-free (phthalates are a petroleum-based additive in some fragrances) and as sustainable as possible, and appropriate to the spirit of Sarva. Not all fragrance oils are created equal! Some are derivatives of natural substances.
- All will be clearly marked on packaging and on the web site.
- The Nearly Naturals soaps will be 95-97% natural, whereas our present soaps are 100% natural.
- I may more closely investigate the use of oxides to pigment some of these soaps.
- The main focus of Sarva will always be the 100% natural products you have come to love… the Nearly Naturals are simply a supplement. You can then choose for yourself which side of the environmental fence you wish to stand on, and you can shop based on your principles, not mine.
Your feedback is the sole determining factor. Please share with me how you feel about this matter in the comments below. I want to create soaps that you love to use and feel good about using, and I want to feel good about making them.
Edit: To clarify, I am NOT ceasing production of essential oil soaps, nor is my hand being forced to do so. They will always comprise the bulk of the product line, if not the whole product line. I am asking if you do – or don’t – want increased choice in the form of any available sustainable fragrance oils. As time passes and we learn more about natural as well as synthetic fragrance (or a hybrid thereof), we learn more about the impact our use of them has on our bodies and the environment. And our available choices shift. What do YOU want?
Thank you!
January 6th, 2010 at 10:07 am
This is akin to someone who has battled the cigarette industry not only taking up smoking but also selling cigarettes. It’s your choice, of course, but this is exactly what it’s like. There are plenty of essential oils still left to use.
Many essential oil crops are part of the economy of countries with expanding populations, resulting in increasing pressure on land to produce food and fuel. It is important to ensure the optimum social and economic benefit from establishing and growing essential oil crops.
You’re very creative Michelle. I’m sure you can come up with some blends using unregulated EO’s that are just as good, if not better, than the EO’s you need to stop using. It’s your choice.
January 6th, 2010 at 10:45 am
Thank you for your input, Sonsa. There are many stances on this matter, but I have to admit that I completely disagree with your metaphor.
I am not discontinuing any approved essential oils, nor products made with them, and I will ALWAYS place my top priority on formulating 100% natural products. I have nearly 30 soaps, and I do indeed use a great many essential oils. As I said, stricter regulations are coming that will further limit what we are able to use.
Many crops are indeed part of the economy of battered countries as you so rightly suggest, and I am not stopping using them. That is the key here. I am NOT switching to synthetics.
At this point, all I am doing is opening up an opportunity for customer feedback. If the majority wants a 100% natural soap, that is what I will do. I have not purchased ANY fragrance oils to date.
I believe we need to stay open minded.
January 6th, 2010 at 10:49 am
We also need to remember that just because it’s natural, that doesn’t mean it’s safe, and there is much clinical data available – that I work with on a daily basis – and we need to be very, very careful what we use.
If my customers want only natural soaps, due to arising regulation, they will have a gradually more limited selection. As you, yourself a natural perfumer, have stated from your own experience, it can be a real challenge to use many essential oils in soap. If my customers are fine with that, then I am too.
I didn’t say I agreed completely with IFRA, and I made it quite clear that I don’t like this either. But true sustainability considers ALL issues: Economic, environmental, safety, and ethics. And that is what I will do.
January 6th, 2010 at 11:11 am
One last thing. Many essential oils, while still permitted by IFRA and considered safe in some applications, must be used in such a small amount in a personal care product that they would simply not be detected by the nose. And we learn more about this every year. This, in a way, could be viewed as a waste of precious natural raw materials.
I am NOT advocating polluting our planet, robbing anyone of income, giving anyone cancer, or going completely synthetic. I am advocating as large a view as possible. I will continue to use any essential oils I can, while still knowing I am making the best choice for everyone.
January 6th, 2010 at 12:18 pm
I like the comparison to the LEED buildings. Makes sense.
I would not have a problem using the “Nearly Naturals” line of soaps, since I’m sure it would still be far more healthy than “mega-brand” soaps. Also, you have clearly done a LOT of research on this topic, and that is comforting to know.
January 6th, 2010 at 2:20 pm
I’m sure it’s only scratching the surface of what you already know, but I’m coming from a place of nearly complete ignorance on the subject; I wanted to give the most informed opinion I could, so I did some research.
It seems the fragrance industry is somewhat similar to the AIA (American Institute of Architects). There are laws and federal regulatory entities out there to deal with public safety when it comes to buildings, but if you belong to the AIA you must comply with its rules and regulations of conduct.
For the American governments part, the FDA is in charge of the fragrance industy, but doesn’t seem to have issued any substantial laws and has “left it up to the industry to self-regulate”. The EPA has issued some guidelines with regards to airborne fragrances, but not typically anything to do with “washable” fragrances.
So it’s up to the trade organizations. The FMA says on it’s website that it is a self-regulating organization, which means in order to be a member in good standing you must comply with their codes of conduct, which simply follow those of the IFRA (International) which bans certain fragrances and oils based on what it’s RIFM (research arm) discovers.
So, using the architect analogy, if you want to be a member of such an organization, you will have to follow their rules regarding the use of fragrances they have “banned”. However, can one be an architect and NOT belong to the all-powerful AIA? Certainly. It was once frowned upon, but go to any local chapter of the AIA and you won’t find many members. Perhaps being a member of one of these fragrance trade associations is more trouble than the handy newsletter you get.
Again, you will know this stuff far better than I, and maybe being a part of one of these organizations means something to you and your business, but it looks like they’ve been giving you some grief, and I don’t know that it’s worth it.
Please let me know if there are some real laws out there, with teeth, that I’m unaware of – laws that force you to choose between oils and fragrances as I really don’t know.
January 6th, 2010 at 3:36 pm
Bud – what a well informed comment, thank you.
Yes, you are indeed correct. At this point – and I repeat, at this point – compliance is voluntary. This could change. There are individuals in this industry who believe that IFRA/RIFM compliance *now* prevents unnecessary policing by the FDA. Remember, the FDA could easily bring IFRA in as an informational organization and enforce their findings. There is a *lot* of increased FDA regulation in the last few years, and it is not something that would be impossible. They do, in fact, have enforcement power on other issues, and they use it.
I am not a member of IFRA. I purchase from both IFRA and non IFRA member distributors.
There is, however, a different side of this. It is not solely political.
Well, two, actually. (1) The skin safety issues that I believe are of critical importance to adhere to. Some of RIFM’s findings correlate with my own data. Some do not. Some are close. We are left to make our own judgment, but new research continually is available. I can’t stress enough how important is is to treat essential oils like the chemicals they are, natural or no. Essential oils are very nearly abused in this country. Go to Europe and you find a different situation altogether.
(2) Environmental concerns. I am in contact with people who are going to be providing me more information about the environmental impact of essential oils production versus fragrance oils production. Consider deforestation or plants which do not quickly grow back. We have depleted many natural resources.
I also wish to reiterate that I am NOT eliminating products that I – and IFRA – deem safe, and the bulk of my product line will always be natural. This was merely putting feelers out to see what my customers want. If my customers want 100% natural products, and are content to have less choice, then I am happy to oblige.
Thank you again, Bud, for taking the time to write this considered post.
January 6th, 2010 at 6:14 pm
i commend you for bringing these issues to our attention. i think there are a lot of people out there that think it is only the food and drug industries that have regulations. i think that we as consumers have the right to know what is in any given product.
i did not start using sarva soaps with the knowledge that they were all natural. i occasionally looked at ingredients out of curiousity. i like the product. i try to live a mainly “natural” lifestyle. i buy natural whenever i can, but don;t kill myself if it’s not possible. knowing that you have our best interests in mind is key. i will continue to buy the soap and to give it as gifts. i am a hairstylist and recognize that we can’t always get a product in. either due to warehouse shortages, a sellout, or ingredient availablity. heck some of my favorite products get discontiued for nothing more than a company decision. not much i can do about that.
the fact that some soaps will be discontinued is a shame. but it happens with everything. i think of it as a chance to try something different or new. call it a chance to live “outside the box”. doing so in the past has never proven to be fatal for me. and in some instances it has been an opprtunity to grow.
i support sarva soap, no matter what. you’re very talented and i think whatever the final decision is, it will be a good move.
best wishes with all your future ventures.
January 6th, 2010 at 6:37 pm
lenore69 and Jennifer, thanks for your comments. What I’m doing is letting this serve as a poll. I think we have a vote against any synthetics, two votes for “anything is fine”, and also some very interesting points raised. I invite the comments to continue.
There is a difference sometimes between a green product and an all-natural product. My choices for the all-natural products must, in my mind, remain green, though even what’s green is a nebulous concept. What happens beyond that point will be based on further research
January 7th, 2010 at 6:20 am
Michelle. This is some amazing information. I have a few doubts- what is the difference between a fragrance oil and essential oil? My thought is essential oils are 100% natural from the plant, where as fragrance oils may or may not be blends of essential oils watered down with synthetics? Also is there a difference between essential oils and aromatherapy oils?
I think in countries where essential oil production takes up the land of food production- it is unfortunate no doubt, but that as long as there is a demand for the oils, they probably will win out to food production as it is more economically beneficial. And, these oils sometimes coming from developing countries, financial decisions often trump others. This is true even with food production – finest grains and fruits are shipped out of some countries leaving the ‘remains’ for the locals. Sad, but true.
How are essential oils ‘abused’ in America compared to Europe?
I admire your openness with your customers. As someone said above (sorry missed the name) this is an opportunity to be creative. Rules and regulations are helpful, and seem constrictive but you continue to amaze me at your creativity! We have a lot to learn from you in flexible living!
What is the difference between green and all-natural?
I like your products being they are ‘clean rinsing’. This is important because I noticed for me this actually dramatically reduces time I spend cleaning soap residue from sinks and bathtubs! I also like the colors don’t leave ’stains’ behind. I have vote for clean rinsing, 100% natural and nearly natural. It’s is sad that no matter how hard we try to be green and all natural it does in some way impact the environment. As long as we live we must consume something, and that something in someway affects someone or something somewhere. We are all connected! We just need to strive for balance (of course a topic for later discussion!).
Thanks.
January 7th, 2010 at 6:20 am
PS is there a specific list of these oils?
January 7th, 2010 at 4:03 pm
Jennifer -
Thank you for your very carefully considered comments! I just completed a new blog post that will hopefully address many of the issues you raised. You are so right… we are all connected. I think the concept of E-cubed will really appeal to you.
As to the difference between essential oils and aromatherapy oils, this has largely to do with the purity, but there are other factors. Aromatherapy-grade EOs (essential oils) are typically confirmed pure by gas chromatography analysis, a process where they examine how light refracts through the molecules of the EO. This refraction process helps determine purity of the EO. There are other techniques, some more and some less advanced, but this is the present reliable industry standard.
Further, Aromatherapy grade EOs are sometimes selected based on their chemotype, meaning the balance of naturally-occurring chemicals that are detected within the oil. There are also different cultivars of, say, Basil, and they will tend to have different chemical compositions, and one specific type of Basil may be helpful for acne (O. sanctum) while more generally speaking, Basil is a great for coughs, decongestant, or a mental alertness aid. But again, you must know the chemotype of your EO in order to determine some of this. You won’t find that information on a bulk bottle of EO or in a grocery store. Those EOs are not as carefully analyzed.
As for EO abuse in America, I was being harsh… in general we are far less trained here to work with these very powerful chemicals, and the assumption is that because they are natural, they are safe. (Do note that a three-year-old boy was poisoned and died from ingesting 10ml, or just 1 teaspoon, of eucalyptus oil in 1980.) It isn’t quite this way in Europe, and aromatherapy certification in Britain is a governmental process.
Hope that helps answer your question! And thank you for your incredibly kind words about the soaps. That means so much to me.
January 7th, 2010 at 9:51 pm
i agree with jennifer. i would prefer for the soaps to continue to be dye free for cleaner rinsing. i never knew that dyes in products could be that strong until i started doing hair for a living. i also like the fact that sarva soaps do not smell like chemicals when you wet them. again, when you work with hair/body products on a daily basis, you notice little things like this . to open and use most products you smell chemicals with “fragrance” masting it. with products that either use no or little artificial frangrance you don’t pick up on that. believe me, you can really tell when you go to wash their hair what they’ve been using.
also, aromatherapy oils are diluted by carrier oils that are approved for the skin. essential oils are just that, similar actually to baking extracts. you don’t really use them at full strength. they are just too harsh. recipes, be they for skin care or baking, have certain standards of dillution.
i think something to keep in mind is that if sarva is shut down for an infringment of IFRA regulations we all lose. michelle must do what is best for the business AND for her peace of mind. we should support whatever choice she makes.
January 7th, 2010 at 10:28 pm
Yes, exactly. There are certain standards of dilution, and again, here in the USA we commonly exceed these safe standards. That’s another facet of the abuse I was referring to. We’re so addicted to strong products, and someone like you, a hairdresser, is inundated with them and very sensitive. Then, we move to aromatherapy, which by its nature must be more subtle, and we are disappointed that we don’t get that same “scent hit” as with all the synthetics. It’s already been proven, though, that you don’t even need to *smell* the essential oil for it to affect you. Your nose has inhaled its molecules whether you consciously smell it or not.
IFRA is trying to address this problem, and thus their standards seem incredibly harsh to us. This is not necessarily the case for every oil in question. What’s more, they propose that we develop a cumulative dermal sensitization reaction to fragrances, natural or synthetic. So they suggest for this reason that thresholds stay even lower.
When you start to think about all of this, you can easily begin to see why fragrance oils are not such a bad idea for skin care products that are manufactured in bulk, reserving essential oils for strict aromatherapy applications.
And this doesn’t even address the environmental/depletion issues!
Further, did you ever notice that organic products often use synthetic fragrance? Given everything we’ve discussed, I’ll let you ponder the several reasons why
Great to hear on the dyes! I use NO synthetic pigments, and no matter what anyone says, oxides are not natural! I do want to point out that, on occasion, I use some clays that may transfer color to pure cotton washcloths, especially red clay. Bear in mind all of those clay-dyed T-shirts you’ve seen.
IFRA would not shut me down. They are not a regulatory body, merely a trade organization. Compliance is voluntary, and many distillers and distributors are actually refusing to join and/or revoking their membership because of these issues. If I was randomly audited by IFRA, they would ask for a product sample and they would run analysis on the sample. If it was found to be in violation, I would be asked to remedy the situation and pull that product or fix it. If I was using materials they banned, they would ask for my supplier’s name and then the supplier would be held liable as well.
Still, the FDA could very easily choose to enforce IFRA’s standards if they so chose. I would likely not be shut down, but if the FDA chose to enforce IFRA standards, things could get difficult. This is why so many people are choosing to be compliant now… at least until the current backlash I’m hearing about.
These are very complex issues, and there is no one right answer.
January 8th, 2010 at 8:26 am
Michelle –
Great post full of thought provoking information. I struggled with the decision to begin using phthalate free fragrance oils in my products. After providing a survey to my client base, it was unanimous that a majority liked both essential and fragrance oil options. Natural is and will always be my base of creation, however, you can’t argue with the millions of people that want to smell like a sugar cookie or a version of pomegranate that can’t be duplicated in nature.
You know I’m a huge fan of your creations and think you are one of the best, if not THE best soapmaker in the industry. I know you will find a balance.
ROCK on gal!
Lisa M. Rodgers
January 10th, 2010 at 8:42 pm
Wow! Lots of great comments here; so good to read everyone’s view point. I believe the supplement industry went through something similar to this as well a number of years ago; unfortunatley, I do not recall the details; I’ll have to ask around.
Being in the natural foods industry, I applaud and commend ALL of the research you’re doing for your products. This gathering and dissemination of information to the consumer gives the consumer the choice to purchase the best product for them, based on their values and lifestyle.
I support you in whatever decision you make and would have to agree with Lenore; you must make decisions based on your core values, what is best for your business and also what your customers want: You are doing all of this!
Personally, I would not purchase products with synthetic oils in them that smelled like sugar cookies, plums, vanilla, or apple pie. My body just does not respond well to them, and I end up getting headaches or feel sick to my stomach. I do not use these types of products in the yoga studio either; all cleaning products are natural/clean, some organic. I want the cleanest most ‘natural’ products used when it comes to having contact with not only my skin and lungs but my customers. (I use only vegetable based or soy wax candles with lead free wicks)
I would however, consider a line that is 95-97% natural. Most bodycare products in the natural industry are either 70 or 95% organic, and most are made with some type of paraben even if it’s less than .5%
Keep doing what you’re doing girlfriend. You’ve got me as a customer and I look forward to turning on more peeps to Sarva Soaps! Woot! Woot!